by Barry Maletzky
Esteemed long-time Mazama member David Wedge passed away quietly on a gray November morning after enduring one of the harshest and most debilitating illnesses of brain diseases known to medicine—Multiple System Atrophy. As cruel as its name implies, this condition began to affect David about five years ago, sapping him of the strength and wisdom we had all come to admire. It eventually required 24-hour care as weakness and lack of coordination set in.
David’s first attempt at climbing Mt. Hood in the 1980s, in jeans and a cotton T-shirt, marked the beginning of a process during which he came not only to understand the importance of proper gear but of proper training as well. He quickly joined the Mazamas to learn the basics but his rapid progression through all the schools and his athletic skills and strength brought him to the attention of Mazama leadership gurus and soon David was teaching as much as climbing. Indeed, as strong a climber and hiker as he was, it was his ability to lead, teach and help others appreciate the magnitude of the mountains that set him apart. His patience, kindness, and intelligence helped more than a few new Mazamas learn the ropes and eventually join our organization. Each student became a testament to his commitment to teaching; each climb he led became a witness to his determination to make climbing an enjoyable and educational voyage for all who followed him. He did not lead the south side of Mt. Hood 20 times for his own glory, but to share the joy of climbing with those new to the sport.
Throughout the 1980s and into the earliest years of the present century, he became one of the most respected and admired of the great Mazama climbing teachers and leaders. Not restricting his leads to the usual “16 Majors”, he often led climbs into remote and relatively unexplored regions of the Northwest. David also served selflessly on a variety of committees and became a lead instructor in almost all of our schools, including leading ASI on several occasions. He also was instrumental in transforming what was our New Member Fair into our present format of Discovery Night. Throughout long committee meetings and countless days with his students at the practice cliffs and ice crevasses, the generosity of his spirit never dimmed.
Of all his admirable traits, humility stood out in contrast to the range and depth of his achievements. David always searched for ways to improve– both in his business as an apartment owner and in his approaches to teaching and climbing. He exerted the same careful diligence and self-scrutiny toward his tenants as he did to his climbing students. He once asked me if he was “good enough” to lead ASI. I told him, “no– you’re not good enough; you’re perfect”. If there were wages for being humble, David would have been a billionaire.
He survived the loss of his first wife, Jeannie, also a Mazama climber, to ovarian cancer a number of years ago. Yet he persisted with his climbing and teaching, marrying Tica, his second wife five years ago. She demonstrated great courage in caring for him during his declining years. Aside from Tica, he is survived by a sister in Phoenix, Rosemarie Malroy, and twin sisters in Hood River, Sharon Marsh and Shirly Sterr. A Memorial Service was held in his honor at the Multnomah Athletic Club on Sunday, November 23rd. Although some eulogies were presented, they were largely superfluous; David’s life itself served as his own best eulogy. Assuredly he will be missed both within and outside the Mazama community; however, the memories of his gentle strength will not soon be forgotten.
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