William “Bill” Frank Kingsbury | July 29, 1936 - Nov. 21, 2014

(excerpted from The Oregonian)

William Frank Kingsburgy died Nov. 21, 2014 at the age of 78, while pursuing is favorite pastime—hiking. Bill served in the U.S. Army and then entered the U.S. Foregin Service. He served in Japan, Korea, Spain, the Netherlands and Washington, D.C. While in Korea he married Melinda Wendell in 1969. They had three children.

Bill retired from the state department in 1996 and he and Melinda moved to Oregon in 1998, where he avidly pursued the outdoor life, including hiking, camping and snowshoeing with the Mazamas and Oregon Trails Club. Bill had been an active member of the Mazamas since joining in 2005.
A service is planned at 11 a.m. Saturday, Jan. 24, 2015 at Westminster Presbyterian Church.

David Wedge | May 5, 1945 - Nov. 10, 2014

by Barry Maletzky

Esteemed long-time Mazama member David Wedge passed away quietly on a gray November morning after enduring one of the harshest and most debilitating illnesses of brain diseases known to medicine—Multiple System Atrophy.  As cruel as its name implies, this condition began to affect David about five years ago, sapping him of the strength and wisdom we had all come to admire. It eventually required 24-hour care as weakness and lack of coordination set in.

David’s first attempt at climbing Mt. Hood in the 1980s, in jeans and a cotton T-shirt, marked the beginning of a process during which he came not only to understand the importance of proper gear but of proper training as well. He quickly joined the Mazamas to learn the basics but his rapid progression through all the schools and his athletic skills and strength brought him to the attention of Mazama leadership gurus and soon David was teaching as much as climbing. Indeed, as strong a climber and hiker as he was, it was his ability to lead, teach and help others appreciate the magnitude of the mountains that set him apart. His patience, kindness, and intelligence helped more than a few new Mazamas learn the ropes and eventually join our organization. Each student became a testament to his commitment to teaching; each climb he led became a witness to his determination to make climbing an enjoyable and educational voyage for all who followed him. He did not lead the south side of Mt. Hood 20 times for his own glory, but to share the joy of climbing with those new to the sport.

Throughout the 1980s and into the earliest years of the present century, he became one of the most respected and admired of the great Mazama climbing teachers and leaders. Not restricting his leads to the usual “16 Majors”, he often led climbs into remote and relatively unexplored regions of the Northwest. David also served selflessly on a variety of committees and became a lead instructor in almost all of our schools, including leading ASI on several occasions. He also was instrumental in transforming what was our New Member Fair into our present format of Discovery Night. Throughout long committee meetings and countless days with his students at the practice cliffs and ice crevasses, the generosity of his spirit never dimmed.

Of all his admirable traits, humility stood out in contrast to the range and depth of his achievements. David always searched for ways to improve– both in his business as an apartment owner and in his approaches to teaching and climbing. He exerted the same careful diligence and self-scrutiny toward his tenants as he did to his climbing students. He once asked me if he was “good enough” to lead ASI. I told him, “no– you’re not good enough; you’re perfect”. If there were wages for being humble, David would have been a billionaire.

He survived the loss of his first wife, Jeannie, also a Mazama climber, to ovarian cancer a number of years ago. Yet he persisted with his climbing and teaching, marrying Tica, his second wife five years ago. She demonstrated great courage in caring for him during his declining years. Aside from Tica, he is survived by a sister in Phoenix, Rosemarie Malroy, and twin sisters in Hood River, Sharon Marsh and Shirly Sterr. A Memorial Service was held in his honor at the Multnomah Athletic Club on Sunday, November 23rd. Although some eulogies were presented, they were largely superfluous; David’s life itself served as his own best eulogy. Assuredly he will be missed both within and outside the Mazama community; however, the memories of his gentle strength will not soon be forgotten.

Chadwick Karr, Ph.D. | Feb 12, 1919 - Oct. 24, 2014

from The Oregonian

Chadwick Karr was born Feb. 12, 1919, in Yakima, to Arthur J. Karr and Harriet Chadwick Karr. Chad went to the University of Washington where he received a degree in sociology. He returned to Yakima to help run the family orchard business, where he built a cold storage unit that he later sold along with the orchards so that he could go back to school to get his Ph.D. in Psychology.

While in Yakima, Chad married Marian Kershaw. They later divorced. With his wife and two daughters, Chad moved to Portland where he began his career at Boys & Girls Aid. After two years there, he began his 29-year-long career teaching psychology at Portland State University, then called Portland State College. Chad especially liked working with students and participating on various committees over time. He was active in several university-related organizations including Sigma Xi, a national science honorary, where he held several office including president of the local chapter. He was active in both the Portland and the Oregon psychological associations.

In 1987, he married Mary Siebert Pintarich. Chad retired in 1989 and along with Mary, began traveling extensively, especially enjoying the many Elderhostel programs that they attended both in the Unitest States and internationally. Always an outdoorsman, Chad loved mountain climbing, hiking, camping and later birding. He was a 50-year member of Mazamas and served on many committees and as president.

Chad is survived by his wife, Mary Karr; sister, Ann Boutwell; daughter, Sarah Karr (David Hibbs); grandchildren, Jennifer Cook-Karr, Ryan Hibbs, and Robin Hibbs; stpechildren, Leslie Pintarich, Cheryl Costello, Daniel Pintarich and Kristen Pintarich; step-grandchildren, Erin and Kimberly Costello and Elizabeth, Matthew and Abigail Pintarich; and three great-grandsons. Chad's daughter, Susan, predeceased him.

At his request, there will be no service. Memorial contributions may be made to the Alzheimer's Association.

John Sell | Nov. 30, 1911 - Aug. 20, 2014

From the Oregonian

John I. Sell of Portland passed away Aug. 20, 2014, at the age of 102, a day which also marked the 75th wedding anniversary to his dear wife, Margaret, now 98 years of age. He was born Nov. 30, 1911, in Milwaukee, Wis, the son of John M. and Rose Sell. John's characteristic strength and fortitude was developed at an early age, having lost both his parents in his teenage years. Event as a boy, his employers noted his intelligence and abilities and served as mentors to help him survive as a young, independent man.

John's banking career began in 1930, whn he was hired as a messenger boy for First Wisconsin National Bank. He saved his money and in 1936, bought a trusty Chevy for $509. Loaded down with National Geographics and canned beans, he and a buddy headed west. It was a grand an perilous journey as they dealt with flat tires, brakes giving out on mountain curves, sleeping in a tent and an empty stomach. His adventurous spirit delighted in The Black Hills, Yellowstone, the Rocky Mountains and finally the Columbia River. Portland was his destination. He arrived on a Saturday and had a job on Monday, having been hired on the spot by First National Bank of Portland, which was a good thing because he had only $1.75 in his pocket. John was later transferred to The Dalles branch where he met the prettiest girl in town, Margaret Maynard, who also had the honor of being the first female teller in the bank. They married in 1939.

While living in The Dalles, John was elected to the State House as a representative for Wasco County. He was also employees as office manager for Seufert Bros., a cannery of salmon, fruit, and vegetables, located near Celilo Falls. Upon returning to the bank, he was appointed as manager of First National's Salem branch. He and Margaret embraced Salem's social life and had many happy times at Illahe Hills country Club. In 1969, he returned to Portland and served as the bank's representative to the Oregon State Legislature.

John served as president of Oregon Tax Research, the Salem Chamber of Commerce and as a board member of The Oregon Symphony. He loved the outdoors and was an avid hiker and photographer in his beloved mountains in the Pacific Northwest as well as Switzerland. John was honored for his contributions to the Myrtle Falls Bridge construction on Mt. Rainier. He continued to hike on Mt. Hood while well into his late 80s and enjoyed golf, bridge, historical literature, vegetable gardening, hot fudge sundaes, and Margaret's huckleberry pies. Ever curious, he and Margaret traveled throughout the world. He was a member of the University Club, the Mazamas, and The Dalles Elks Lodge.

John was a principled and honest man, and full of love for his family. He is survived by his wife, Margaret; daughter Joan (John) Schindelar; son, Randy (Tamara); grandchildren, Jason and Scott (Adrienne); and great-grandchildren, Blake and Micah.

The family would like to thank The Courtyard at Mt. Tabor Assisted Living for exemplary care.

Remembrances may be directed to the Mazamas and the University Club of Portland Foundation.

The family will honor his life with a private service.

Donald M. Kemper Sr.

July 27, 1933 - July 1, 2014

(much of this is quoted from The Oregonian Obituary)

Donald Kemper Sr. passed away July 1, 2014 in a fishing accident. Although his passing was unexpected, his last adventure was doing something he loved.

He was born in Hartmal, Colo. to Melvin and Nelly Kemper. The family moved to Ridgefield during the Dust Bowl and Don lived in Clark County for 78 years. He was a sergeant in the US Army during the Korean War and served in the US Army Reserve for another eight years. He married Dianne Nickels in 1956 and they raised three children together. Dianne passed away in 1999 from lung cancer, and Don married longtime friend, Joyce Keefer, in 2005.

Don was a leader, teacher, and community volunteer. He worked hard to establish the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge and served as chair of the Ridgefield School Board. He served as president of the Mazamas (1984), the Northwest Blacksmith Association, Artist-Blacksmith’s Association of North American, and on boards of many wonderful organizations.

With the Mazamas Don was a Basic School lecturer, a Basic School group leader, led Mazama Outings, was a climb leader, and as an active blacksmith he made the door handles for the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Don loved teaching people new things. He carefully researched topics and hobbies, learning all of the rules, and adamantly taught safety to every student and family member. He had an infectious smile and would always share a kind word and a positive story. He saw potential in everyone and delighted in seeing students find their passion. Don had a strong faith, loving family, and countless friends.

Don was preceded in death by his wife, Dianne; sister, Frances; and granddaughter, Desirae.

Survivors include his wife, Joyce; brothers, Willis (Donna) and Mel Jr. (Sheryl); sister, Charleen; sons, Don Jr. in Ridgefield and Dana (Delain) in Vancouver; and daughter Diana Callaway (George) in Portland. He was very proud of his grandchildren; Derek (Jaime), Drake, Mercedes, Max and Chase. He leaves nieces, nephews, friends and family too numerous to mention but not fogotten.

Don Kemper – musings from his daughter Diana Kemper-Callaway

Don had a 5 digit REI number. He packed up the family and climbing friends and would make trips to Seattle just to shop at REI, when they only had 1 store.  This was in the days when they still sold Lederhosen as mountaineering gear. If he couldn’t find what he want or needed, he and his early climbing buddies would make it.

Don made a friend in the late 60’s by the name of Larry Penberthy, who was starting a new company.  He wanted Don to try out a prototype for his new stove he said would revolutionize climbing stoves.  We had to drive up to Seattle to meet with him and pick them up. The small business office for the new company called MSR was located on Boeing Field.

Don climbed extensively in Smith Rocks in the late 60’s, 70’s.  This was way before it became popular in the 1980’s.  Actually, that was before it was even a State Park.  Don had the phone number of Farmer Truax, who owned the land on the east side of Smith, that butted up to the climbing area.  He and Truax made a deal that Don had welcome access at anytime, he simply had to call so Truax would know people would be on his ranch land camping and climbing.  Then it became popular in the 80’s and one time he stopped by on the way to Bend and noted all of the spandex the climbers wearing. He said “lycra wasn’t his look” but it was all good as long as Juniper Junction (now RedPointe) still served Huckleberry ice cream. We remember when they filmed “Rooster Cogburn” with John Wayne in Terrebonne.  Juniper Junction was actually a set from the movie (Kate’s Saloon) and then became the general store at Smith that also served tasty ice cream.

The Mazamas were like a second family to him.  He made many lifelong friends, attended many celebrations, formed strong bonds with climbing partners, lost many good friends along the way.

Don had a wider circle of climbing friends who would come climb with him and stay at his house.  As kids, we thought this was normal. Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins, Willi Unsoeld, Ome Daiber, Lou Whitaker, Bill Sumner.

Don had a love affair for Mt. St. Helens and when they declared a moratorium on climbing in 1980 due to volcanic activity, he insisted on climbing it many times (seriously at least 14 times) just to witness the changes on the mountain.  The sheriffs greeted him everytime at the roadblock, said “guess we can’t stop you from climbing” – Don replied, “no” and off he went. Both sides were cordial.  Don finally stopped climbing St Helens when he and I came up with a plan. I was taking photography in school, we had a neighbor who had a plane and a willing flight instructor. We just needed to find a way to get permission to fly over the mountain. We found a friend at the newspaper who would supply us with press credentials and we had a hour long flight passing over the “red zone” (no fly zone except open to Press) - almost 60 minutes, just taking pictures, looking at the mountain and noting changes.  It was a very cool trip.  And I got an “A” in photography that semester.

Don was called on for many rescues on Mt. Hood over the years. He was called when the OES tragedy happened in 1986, but he was not home. He later served as the moderator of the accident review panel. He was called by attorneys and parents, asking if he would testify as an expert witness in pending legal cases, but politely declined and explained that no matter the findings, it would not bring their children back. As it ended, he did not testify, nor was he subpoenaed.

Don would lead ice practice on the Eliot every year. The characterization of him in his prototype Stand Up Shorts that Yvon gave him, with his white shirt, sleeves rolled up, and handkerchief to protect his bald head was very accurate.  An annual fixture on the slopes.

Don led a trek in the Karakoram to the base camp of K2 and Gasherbrum.  He called it “a trek and climb in the Karakoram”

Don led an elder hostel group to the base camp of Everest.  He said that even though the group was in shape and knew what they were getting into, he probably wouldn’t do that again. (Don was the oldest one in the group )

Don worked hard in the early 1960s to help establish the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge.  He and a pilot friend removed the door of a small plane, harnessed Don so he could stand on the struts to take photographs and he documented the proposed wildlife area. He spent countless hours around the dining room table with a group writing and preparing documentation to present to Senators Scoop Jackson and Warren Magnusson. The Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1965.

Don went on two missions to New Orleans to rebuild houses after Hurricane Katrina.

Don taught safety and rescue classes and his kids were usually the “victim” being rescued.  We were hauled up in real litters and makeshift rope litters:

• Horsethief routes
• The side of Mazama  Lodge
• The practice wall at Smith
• Lowered into and hauled out of crevasses
• Carried off the mountain at snow practice

But we were all trained and skilled mountaineers as well.  We were young, but we did know what we were doing, because we had grown up mountaineering.  There was one time when I cut myself on the mountain and he stitched me up (without novocaine) in the kitchen at Mazama Lodge.

My dad carried me up to the summit of Mt. St. Helens in his backpack when I was 2.  Mt. Hood was my first mountain on my own power – I was 6.  He led a Mazama climb to Shasta for my 16^th birthday (Ed Holts first climb).  I had climbed Mt. Rainer and Monkey Face prior to that. 

Mark Richard Hanschka, 80

This obituary was submitted by Ezma Henry Hanschka.

July 7, 1933 - June 1, 2014, (Portland, Oregon)

A public Celebration of Life will take place on Sunday, Sept 28th, 2 p.m. at Mazama Lodge. Please let Ezma know (ehanschka@mac.com) if you plan on attending.  

Mark is survived by his wife of 27 years, Ezma Henry Hanschka, along with his sister Carol H Traenkle (Jeff) of Wayland and Oak Bluffs, MA. Children include Stephen Hanschka (Buffy Trott) of Portland, OR, Whitney Hanschka (Nancy Tutko) of Martha's Vineyard, MA, Laura Hanschka (James Suvier) of Scottsdale, AZ, Mark Lewis (Shannen Chapman) of Corvallis, Teri Lewis (Mike Lewis) of Corvallis, Chris Hanschka (Stephenie Thang) of Sammamish, WA, Matt Souther (Bonni Stover) of Portland, OR, Gretchen Souther Ranger (Tim Ranger) of Springfield, OR, and ten beautiful grandchildren.

Mark was preceded in death by his parents, Herbert L Hanschka, and Grove T Hanschka of Montclair, New Jersey. His growing up years were spent in Montclair, where he graduated Valedictorian from Montclair Academy, 1951, having also received honors for excellence in math & science. As well as being editor-in-chief of the school's newspaper, he became an accomplished piano player, an excellent tennis player, and on his way to becoming fluent in French and German (& later Spanish) which gave him great joy in conversing with the locals on many of his travel adventures. When he arrived in Hungary however, he gave up on trying to learn Hungarian.

Mark graduated from Amherst College, MA, 1955, again with honors. While there he participated in squash, swim team, and was captain of the tennis team. Following a first trip abroad in 1954, seeing Europe still ravaged from war, he wrote, "I came home a much more mature young man, able to appreciate my good fortune, see my country with different eyes, and make better decisions about managing my life." He continued his interest in global conditions everywhere, human population explosions affecting quality of life for both rich and poor, their effect on environmental health for all future generations, and the political complexity of each of these issues. His passion and concern never ceased to motivate his many contributions of time, energy, & philanthropy, touching many people's lives in many different ways.

After college, Mark spent a year at Harvard Law School (a less than best fit he would say), then a year at Massachusetts Institute of Technology before entering Harvard Medical School, graduating in 1961. Upon coming out West to scout residency programs with a fellow classmate, he climbed Long's Peak in CO, and then Mt. Hood in Oregon. Having discovered the mountains, he chose, and was accepted to do his residency at Multnomah County Hospital which was then part of the University of Oregon Medical School. With a 4-month rotation in Oahu, HI, Mark fell in love with the tropical paradise of the Hawaiian Islands, ultimately returning numerous times for exploration & relaxation. His decision to become an OBGYN and practice 29 years at Kaiser Permanente allowed him to stay in Oregon, climb all sixteen major NW peaks (award #350) as a long time member of Mazamas, and do the work he most loved, seeing that women get the best health education to make their own private decisions, assuring that every child is a wanted child. Well ahead of the curve, he was also a passionate advocate for 'fathers in the delivery room' influencing Kaiser Permanente to be a leader with this policy.

Both Mark & Ezma were active Portland Mazamas, enjoying many hiking, backpacking, mtn climbing, and skiing adventures together. Mark and Ezma along with Tamim Kaswari led a Mazama two week hiking trip to Kauai in 2000, & Mark & Ezma led a 1997 hiking outing on the Rogue River, as well as participated in numerous outings over the years. As long time Mazama Vera Dafoe shared, "I felt heartbroken when I learned that Mark was gone, permanently gone. So I started thinking about times we have been out there climbing together. The highest one was Mt. Whitney. We probably couldn't have summited that one if we hadn't already been living at altitude for a week or two. There were various lower mountains in the Washington Cascades. Darn near every time on the way down from a climb, Mark would find a lake or creek to dip into. Even on Whitney with our 22-mile one-day hike, you guys added more mileage to it by detouring to a small pond for a dip. Mark was a good man, quiet, thoughtful, intelligent. He was kind. I admired the post-retirement volunteering he did at a clinic in Eugene, driving from Sunriver several times a month. I considered him to be my friend. A good friend. I am so sorry he is gone."

Throughout his lifetime, Mark continued to enjoy playing and listening to classical music, from the Oregon Symphony to the Sunriver Music Festival, and many others. His life-long aviation interests took Mark and Ezma on a wonderful excursion across the US, leaving from Sunriver, in his small Grumman Cheetah in June 2001, visiting friends & family along the way. They also shared a love of travel, continuing their exposure to other cultures, people and environments. Mark was an avid runner, running several marathons in Portland and Boston, where his best time was a very respectable 3:13. Mark and Ezma moved to Sunriver in 1998 upon Mark's retirement. He was enamored with the beauty and bike paths for sure, eventually outfitting his bicycle with spiked snow tires so he could continue to ride most of the winter. He made it a point to visit with his favorite people at Discover Sunriver, The SR Music Festival staff, the haircutting gals in the village, SROA staff, Mike's Tires team, or whomever he might encounter on his daily run to the post office. He truly loved the congenial community and activities of Sunriver, participating in the men's club, the monthly potlucks, the SR music festival, the Nature Center & Observatory activities, etc.

He enjoyed leading hikes now and again for whomever he could entice to explore the environs of central Oregon. While both Mark & Ezma continued their outdoor activities with other "transplanted to central Oregon" Mazamas, he was particularly proud of his 13 ski runs from the summit of Mt Bachelor on July 4, 2012, when the mountain had enough snow pack to be open for that holiday. If he wasn't on his daily run, his daily bike ride, or doing something good for someone somewhere, he still enjoyed playing piano, and when he & Ezma downsized a few years ago, he decided he would donate his lovely baby grand piano to the homeowners side of SHARC to be enjoyed by many for years to come.

Mark's vitality and generous spirit will be greatly missed by his large family and friends. As one of his daughters-in-law put it so beautifully: "We'll always remember you as the stoic dad who cried on news of our engagement, the grandpa who could always be counted on for a stash of chocolate milk, the decimator of leftovers, runner in faded blue corduroy, summit-er of snowy peaks, raver of even semi-home-cooked meals, supporter of WWF and Sierra Club, teller of stories, instigator of outdoor adventures, and loving dad for whom family wasn't founded solely on DNA. Rest in peace, g'pa Mark. We hope the view is stunning from your final summit." The family had a private graveside service at Riverview Cemetery in Portland. Memorial contributions in his name could be made to Planned Parenthood, Portland Mazamas, Sunriver Nature Center & Oregon Observatory, Sunriver Music Festival, Nature Conservancy or any other favorite environmental organization of your choosing.