Donald M. Kemper Sr.

July 27, 1933 - July 1, 2014

(much of this is quoted from The Oregonian Obituary)

Donald Kemper Sr. passed away July 1, 2014 in a fishing accident. Although his passing was unexpected, his last adventure was doing something he loved.

He was born in Hartmal, Colo. to Melvin and Nelly Kemper. The family moved to Ridgefield during the Dust Bowl and Don lived in Clark County for 78 years. He was a sergeant in the US Army during the Korean War and served in the US Army Reserve for another eight years. He married Dianne Nickels in 1956 and they raised three children together. Dianne passed away in 1999 from lung cancer, and Don married longtime friend, Joyce Keefer, in 2005.

Don was a leader, teacher, and community volunteer. He worked hard to establish the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge and served as chair of the Ridgefield School Board. He served as president of the Mazamas (1984), the Northwest Blacksmith Association, Artist-Blacksmith’s Association of North American, and on boards of many wonderful organizations.

With the Mazamas Don was a Basic School lecturer, a Basic School group leader, led Mazama Outings, was a climb leader, and as an active blacksmith he made the door handles for the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Don loved teaching people new things. He carefully researched topics and hobbies, learning all of the rules, and adamantly taught safety to every student and family member. He had an infectious smile and would always share a kind word and a positive story. He saw potential in everyone and delighted in seeing students find their passion. Don had a strong faith, loving family, and countless friends.

Don was preceded in death by his wife, Dianne; sister, Frances; and granddaughter, Desirae.

Survivors include his wife, Joyce; brothers, Willis (Donna) and Mel Jr. (Sheryl); sister, Charleen; sons, Don Jr. in Ridgefield and Dana (Delain) in Vancouver; and daughter Diana Callaway (George) in Portland. He was very proud of his grandchildren; Derek (Jaime), Drake, Mercedes, Max and Chase. He leaves nieces, nephews, friends and family too numerous to mention but not fogotten.

Don Kemper – musings from his daughter Diana Kemper-Callaway

Don had a 5 digit REI number. He packed up the family and climbing friends and would make trips to Seattle just to shop at REI, when they only had 1 store.  This was in the days when they still sold Lederhosen as mountaineering gear. If he couldn’t find what he want or needed, he and his early climbing buddies would make it.

Don made a friend in the late 60’s by the name of Larry Penberthy, who was starting a new company.  He wanted Don to try out a prototype for his new stove he said would revolutionize climbing stoves.  We had to drive up to Seattle to meet with him and pick them up. The small business office for the new company called MSR was located on Boeing Field.

Don climbed extensively in Smith Rocks in the late 60’s, 70’s.  This was way before it became popular in the 1980’s.  Actually, that was before it was even a State Park.  Don had the phone number of Farmer Truax, who owned the land on the east side of Smith, that butted up to the climbing area.  He and Truax made a deal that Don had welcome access at anytime, he simply had to call so Truax would know people would be on his ranch land camping and climbing.  Then it became popular in the 80’s and one time he stopped by on the way to Bend and noted all of the spandex the climbers wearing. He said “lycra wasn’t his look” but it was all good as long as Juniper Junction (now RedPointe) still served Huckleberry ice cream. We remember when they filmed “Rooster Cogburn” with John Wayne in Terrebonne.  Juniper Junction was actually a set from the movie (Kate’s Saloon) and then became the general store at Smith that also served tasty ice cream.

The Mazamas were like a second family to him.  He made many lifelong friends, attended many celebrations, formed strong bonds with climbing partners, lost many good friends along the way.

Don had a wider circle of climbing friends who would come climb with him and stay at his house.  As kids, we thought this was normal. Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins, Willi Unsoeld, Ome Daiber, Lou Whitaker, Bill Sumner.

Don had a love affair for Mt. St. Helens and when they declared a moratorium on climbing in 1980 due to volcanic activity, he insisted on climbing it many times (seriously at least 14 times) just to witness the changes on the mountain.  The sheriffs greeted him everytime at the roadblock, said “guess we can’t stop you from climbing” – Don replied, “no” and off he went. Both sides were cordial.  Don finally stopped climbing St Helens when he and I came up with a plan. I was taking photography in school, we had a neighbor who had a plane and a willing flight instructor. We just needed to find a way to get permission to fly over the mountain. We found a friend at the newspaper who would supply us with press credentials and we had a hour long flight passing over the “red zone” (no fly zone except open to Press) - almost 60 minutes, just taking pictures, looking at the mountain and noting changes.  It was a very cool trip.  And I got an “A” in photography that semester.

Don was called on for many rescues on Mt. Hood over the years. He was called when the OES tragedy happened in 1986, but he was not home. He later served as the moderator of the accident review panel. He was called by attorneys and parents, asking if he would testify as an expert witness in pending legal cases, but politely declined and explained that no matter the findings, it would not bring their children back. As it ended, he did not testify, nor was he subpoenaed.

Don would lead ice practice on the Eliot every year. The characterization of him in his prototype Stand Up Shorts that Yvon gave him, with his white shirt, sleeves rolled up, and handkerchief to protect his bald head was very accurate.  An annual fixture on the slopes.

Don led a trek in the Karakoram to the base camp of K2 and Gasherbrum.  He called it “a trek and climb in the Karakoram”

Don led an elder hostel group to the base camp of Everest.  He said that even though the group was in shape and knew what they were getting into, he probably wouldn’t do that again. (Don was the oldest one in the group )

Don worked hard in the early 1960s to help establish the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge.  He and a pilot friend removed the door of a small plane, harnessed Don so he could stand on the struts to take photographs and he documented the proposed wildlife area. He spent countless hours around the dining room table with a group writing and preparing documentation to present to Senators Scoop Jackson and Warren Magnusson. The Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1965.

Don went on two missions to New Orleans to rebuild houses after Hurricane Katrina.

Don taught safety and rescue classes and his kids were usually the “victim” being rescued.  We were hauled up in real litters and makeshift rope litters:

• Horsethief routes
• The side of Mazama  Lodge
• The practice wall at Smith
• Lowered into and hauled out of crevasses
• Carried off the mountain at snow practice

But we were all trained and skilled mountaineers as well.  We were young, but we did know what we were doing, because we had grown up mountaineering.  There was one time when I cut myself on the mountain and he stitched me up (without novocaine) in the kitchen at Mazama Lodge.

My dad carried me up to the summit of Mt. St. Helens in his backpack when I was 2.  Mt. Hood was my first mountain on my own power – I was 6.  He led a Mazama climb to Shasta for my 16^th birthday (Ed Holts first climb).  I had climbed Mt. Rainer and Monkey Face prior to that.